Forum Activity for @dusty

So much music.

So little time.

The tune is Johnson Boys Robin. I don't know if that old dood ever really gets with the rhythm... but at about 1 minute he gets closer! It's a precious vid huh?

Got a bunch of favs but here's a couple. No dulcimer but they gots drones!...f'sure...

Well, veering away from the dulc a bit :

Tim O'Brien & Jerry Douglas

He is playing it in his lap :)

john p

Robin, that looks like an old Thomas dulcimer...? I love the ol deewde clogging! And then granny cuts the rug too!!!

AWESOME!!!!!! Never saw it before.

Wayne, Pristine's 'gree' video is one of my favorites too. :)

Margie, though I believe this is not Turkey in the Straw , this one would have to be one of my favorites:

.3mm! I though you were talking SERIOUS separation like 4-6mm. Your wood/glue filler will do certainly do the job, we do that sort of thing all the time. I love the 'high silvery' sound of those older, smaller bodied dulcimers. I have a vintage one from the early 1960s that is like that. Enjoy your new sound.

That's the important thing. It sounds like it's in good hands and you'll get a lot of enjoyment from it.

Kevin Little said:

The price was right and I'm happy with it.

This sounds strangely familiar. I bought an old-timey looking dulcimer offeBayabout a year ago, wooden pegs and display stand, and the whole works. It was really heavy, didn't sound very good, and had a split in the back like you're describing. It could not have been squeezed back together, because it seems that both halves were glued to the brace that way, which could be seen through the crack, going across the lower bout. I prevailed on the seller and got my money back. I showed that it was split, while they claimed it was in perfect condition in the ad; I finally convinced them to take it back based on misrepresenting the item. In fact it may have been made that way by mistake. I was happy to get my money back, less shipping. Another eBay lesson. I hope you have better luck, and that yours is easily repairable.

Try your padded bar clamp(s) across the back to gently see if the two pieces can be drawn together...

You could always get a length of thin marquetry backstrip from a guitar shop and surface glue it across the split

Additional sound hole for the little harmonics to fall through!

Does the separation stop at the brace? It may be difficult/impossible to pull it together without damaging something.

I used Epon for the few flyrods I made.

It looks like the glue released at the joint (got hot/wet maybe?). If that's true, the glue could be hide glue and repairing with hide glue should work.

This internal brace you speak of, is it across the gap in the back?

If so, are you sure it is glued right across, or maybe only fixed to one side?

IOW, can the bout be squeezed shut as you suggest.

john p

Yes it's safe to tune and play. Yes it's repairable. Probably not a result of the wood drying. More likely the result of being dropped it on its back or someone pressing in on the back..

The way I'd fix it is:

1. run a line of masking tape along both edges of the split to keep excess glue off the surface.

2. Insert a popsicle stick or somethgn similar and pry up gently to expose the edges. Slather Titebond or similar glue on the edges.

3. Release the stick so the edges come back together again. Put a third strip of masking tape down the length, centered on the split, pressing down slightly as you go.

4. Make sure the new joint is flush. If necessary you can push up on the inside using a pencil or piece of dowel through the sound holes.

That's the fretting I play in an Ionian mode tuning. It's the same fretting pattern that Jean Ritchie plays tuned CGG

I fret the doh note on 3.

TAB Pretty Saro 1-5-5

0 3 1 0 3 4 5 4 3\0 1 0
Down in some lone valley, in a lonesome place
0 0 3 1 0 3 4 4 4 5 7 7 4
Where the wild birds do whistle and their notes do increase
4 5/7 7 8 4 3 3/4 5 0 1 0
Farewell pretty Saro, I'll bid you a-dieu
0 0 3 1 0 0 3 4 5\4 3 0 1 0
But I'll dream of pretty Saro wher-e-ver I go

Never sure what sort of TAB people are looking for. This is how I do it for noter/drone style.(finger/drone in my case)

john p

Vivian, Have you tried playing the tab you have on the middle string in DAd. Basically that's what Richard is doing. He's playing a slightly flat DAd tuning on the A string. You could try tuning just to DAA and playing on the melody line.

Jean Ritchie in her book (I looked her tune up) plays "Pretty Saro" in CGG which will put you an Ionian mode. The site that I gave you has TAB that looks like a Mixolydian tuning, but it is the same fret number that Jean Ritchie plays. If I was tuned CGc, I'd do as Richard has done and play the fretting I have on the middle string.

If you want the sound that Richard is doing, you have to loosen your strings just slightly. You don't really have to retune if you are in DAd just relax the strings an equal amount and your strings shouldn't buzz as you're not going down even a whole note.

Thank you everyone! and thank you Strumelia for fixing my error. I really need to find out how to do that!

Benjamin, I'm glad you told me about the book by Jean Ritchie, I had thought about getting that book anyway, so was glad to know it is in there, I ordered it today, so that will be grand..

I haven't tried retuning yet, as folkfan says he does, actually I'm nervous to do it, but I will give it a try. I am going to try the modes as John P suggests and see what it sounds like...if I can figure it out. I had some progress playing it on the middle string as suggested, it sounded much better, well, except for the missed notes and buzzing strings . That' all good though, because I am really enjoying myself. Thanks again!

http://sniff.numachi.com/lookup.cgi?ds1=D&ds2=D&ds3=G&ti=PRETSARO&tt=PRETSARO&tab=d

This is how I play it using an Ionian tuning of CGG.

Richard is playing a DAd tuning, but 15 percent flat in his tuning and he is playing on the middle string. The vibrating technique he uses give the song a quavery sound that the singer who he has based his playing on has in her voice.

I have it in two of my dulcimer books: The first from the Dulcimer Book by Jean Ritchie, and the second from Aubrey Atwaters arrangement of the Ritchie version in her book, Song by Song.

Looks like Mixalydian(start at open string DAD).

The basic version is pentatonic and can be played in Ionian(start at 3rd fret DAA) and Dorian(start at 4th fret DAG) as well. You can even play it in Aeolian if you have a 6+ fret(start at 1st fret DAC).

An extra long fretboard and lower tuning are mentioned, so maybe it's a non standard,

john p

I fixed it for you Vivian.

Well that didn't work...AAAARRRGGG>

I am going to try and put a link to You Tube video in here, but don't know if it will work...first time trying! Anyway, I found this version of Pretty Saro, and really like it, but the artist has no tab for it and I can't even figure out how he has it tuned.

I have Tab for it in DAD, but it sounds very different.. Can anyone tell me how this is tuned just by listening to it, or know where i might find tab like this version? Here is the link, hopefully. I found it by searching "dulcimer music pretty Saro" and the title of the video is Pretty Saro (Ultra Simple version)

Thanks!

I don't see that anyone else addressed this problem with your dulcimer about the separation that you found on the back, but a dulcimer or other instrument maker/repair person should be able to fix it. I had a little separation on the back of one of mine and took it to someone who was able to add some filler and fix the problem. He was someone who has worked around instruments for a long time. In fact, years ago there was an article on him in Dulcimer Player news.

Happy strumming....

Yep. DAA for Ionian, and add 3 to the fret numbers.

I find this easiest to play in Mixalydian tuning DAD, but maybe you should stick to DAA in view of the extra strain DAD might put on the instrument until it's fixed.

john p

I've just put up some noter TAB in this thread :

http://mountaindulcimer.ning.com/forum/topics/pretty-saro

Any use ?

john p

Wow, Kevin, that's a beauty! I've seen others have replied on your other thread about repair. To me, looks like you've got a gem.

Not a problem, but I'd be mad if the seller didn't tell me about something like a split back!! It's not a real problem. See my comments in your other post...

Got my fingers crossed for you, Kevin!

Do you have any photos to post, Kevin? Someone may have knowledge of the maker yet need a photo to jog their memory. ;)

Hey now, I like those links. Pretty cool.

I used to sell my art at the Minnesota Renaissance Festival. I do know that all perfomers had to audition to get in, and all the one's I know sell CD's and collect donations as part of their performances. Best of luck with finding one that will fit you! Renaissance music is so beautiful, I would like to learn some on my dulcimer too.

Depending on how strict the particular SCA event you want to participate in is, you might not be able to play a mountain dulcimer. It would be out of the time period normally allowed. A hummel would be ok.

Also depending on how strict the Renn faire organization is, that is running the faire you want to play for, the mountain dulcimer might also be unacceptable. Years ago the Bristol Renn faire near me went from very free and easy about what was considered appropriate costuming and music to extremely strict. By their recent website though

http://www.renfair.com/bristol/thefaire/entertainment.asp

this strict view of proper has lessen at least somewhat. There is a group that has an autoharp player.

This is the renn faire I always attended and the performers have to audition for a spot in the show. This is professionally run by for-profit company. You can see the audition procedure on their site. I'm not sure what their current payment of musicians is. It used to be that certain, usually the ones hired back year after year, performers were paid and allowed to sell their cds and others were allowed to busk. Having looked at the 2010 web site, I see that several acts that I've known for years are still performing there.

Vivian, I am so sorry I never saw this question when you first posted.

My first dulcimer, which I bought about 4 years ago, is a Unicorn Woodworks dulcimer made by Johnie Nicholson.

When I first decided to buy a dulcimer, I searched for a local luthier. The only one I found (or so I thought) was Johnie Nichoson. At least the area code of his phone number was for Northern California. But when I called I learned that he had moved to Idaho. I was reluctant to buy an instrument without seeing it first, but he explained that he still buys his wood in Berkeley, and a couple of times a year he makes the drive. About four years ago I met him off the highway near Sacramento while he was on his way to Berkeley. I met him and his wife and he showed me about a half dozen dulcimers. I bought one made of mahogany with a spruce top and rose bud sound holes. At the time it cost me $340if I remember correctly. That dulcimer has served me very well. It is very well balanced and has exceptional sustain.

Over the years I have picked up a few other dulcimers, including (like Patricia) a Blue Lion and a Modern Mountain Dulcimer (both of which cost substantially more than the Unicorn). Both of those have much more volume than the Unicorn and especially much more bass response. The Blue Lion is my favorite for fingerpicking and the MMD is my favorite for flatpicking, but the Unicorn is my second favorite for both. I have also come to own and then re-sell other dulcimers, including a Folkcraft, a Laurel Mountain, and a Folk Roots. I think the Unicorn is at least as solid as those better known instruments. The spruce top gives it a warm tone and the lack of finish on the wood helps increase the sustain.

Just today I was reunited with my Unicorn Woodworks dulcimer, nicknamed Rosa because of the rose soundholes. I had lent it to a newbie about a year ago who was interested in playing. Since I was starting a local dulcimer group, I was eager to recruit as many people as I could. She now has another dulcimer, our group is going strong, and Rosa has returned home. My daughter missed the dulcimermore than I did and insisted on holding it during the drive home. I put on new strings and have been playing my old friend for about an hour or so.

I think Johnie makes instruments that are an exceptional value. I doubt there are many dulcimers in the price range that are any better. The only caveat I would offer is that because Unicorn Woodworks dulcimers are not as well known as some others, they don't retain their value the way a McSpadden does. But if you are looking for an affordable dulcimer to play, it is a very good choice.

I am wondering if anyone has any input on this dulcimer builder? I saw his dulcimers at a local arts fair, in fact that is what got me started on this whole new interest in learning to play dulcimers, but since I was so unfamiliar with the instruments I was afraid to buy one on the spur of the moment...also, it was so noisy in the building it was hard to get an idea of the sound...I thought they were very nice looking instruments. Does anyone have any input about them? I did a web search and came up with the fact that Mary Youngblood, a recording artist has one of his dulcimers, and he has been building them since 1980. Mr Nicholson and his wife were very friendly and helpful and I played around on several of his instruments, but I was too nervous to just buy one without much information on these instruments in general, not knowing if it was a quality instrument or not, and they were priced from about $400. to over $550.00 for the one I liked, and I had no idea if that was a reasonable price or not.

I was wondering because I have a friend who seems to be interested in trying to learn to play as well, and I thought it would be nicer of we had access to a local builder that was very reputable for her to try an instrument, instead of having to order off the internet. which is what I ended up doing. Thanks! Vivian

I am interested in a MMD because my dulcimer is not very loud. I have to put my ear down close to my dulcimer to even hear it when playing in a group. Should I get the one with the resonator back or just the regular one? I want to be able to hear it but I don't want to stand out too loud. I have a lot to learn and still make mistakes at times.

Hi Linda, I have one of the Gardners dulcijos and I love it. The price is reasonable and they are well made of all solid woods and have closed geared tuners and the fretboard is also bridged. Mine is walnut and redwood. Check out their website.

My wife and I both own Cedar Creek dulcimers (my profile picture is one). They are well made and the folks there are some of the nicest people that you'll ever deal with.

I'll throw in my point of view here, too. When I make a short webcam video, I work diligently to play through the tune without errors, get the sound to work and sound good, and frankly I generally scrunch up my face intensely while doing it! No way am I able to focus on "smiling from the joy that playing brings me" when I'm concentrating so hard! That being said, I do appreciate when others manage to include their heads, but mostly when watching a dulcimer player I really want to see their hands and the instrument so I can learn from their technique. So, sorry to say, you won't see much of my face and/or head on any video, by design! ;-)